Nextaphile

My adventures recreating Next Restaurant’s food at home

Cooking Sous vide

sous-vide cooking

What is sous vide anyway?

Sous vide (SOO veed) is French for “under vacuum”, or the simple technique of cooking food sealed in a bag in a hot water bath. And recently, it’s being used more and more. You can control how your food comes out much more accurately with sous vide. Steak cooked to a certain temp in a waterbath will not overcook, and will be consistently the same color, texture and temperature throughout (as compared with grilled meats dry on the outside and juicy on the inside).

When you roast/grill beef the traditional way and take it off the heat, the meat still cooks. You let it “rest” for a while before carving or serving. But I remember many a time on the line, plating a top sirloin, only to have it sit and bleed out while we waited for servers to actually serve their food. Then have it come back as being too well done! Damn, I hated that…

With sous vide, once meat reaches the temp of its waterbath, it’s not going to keep cooking beyond what you want.

American Chefs Thomas Keller and Grant Achatz are strong proponents of the technique, Keller so much so, that he came out with Under Pressure, a seminal book on the subject. I highly recommend this book, as it goes into every detail of the sous vide cooking method, including history, safety tips, best practices, methods and recipes.

There are many ways to cook sous vide. And people have been cooking en sous vide for hundreds of years. Heck, I’m sure your Mom even boiled some rice in a bag when you were a kid! I’ve been using a pot of water and a digital thermometer for years, with passable results. The trick with that old-fashioned way is to try and keep the temperature constant — nearly impossible. Other, more accurate methods involve water and electricity — a time-honored favorite of many cooks, chefs and serial killers…

Many of the recipes I’m cooking from Next Restaurant’s cookbooks include sous vide cooking, so I recently broke down and got the SousVide Supreme water oven and vacuum sealer package, and am loving it. Sure beats that pot o’ water!

Products

Here are some commercial sous vide cooking solutions out there now. I have not listed the DIY rigs you can make with a rice cooker, but those are still viable options if you just don’t want to spend the money on any of these.

SousVide Supreme water ovenSousVide Supreme™ water oven from Eades Appliance Technology
Turn-key sous vide solution. The SousVide Supreme “water oven” easily fits on a countertop, comes in two sizes: the SousVide Supreme, the SousVide Supreme Demi, and is available in several colors/finishes. Prices range from US$299.00 to $459.00.

More info…

Pros:
Most affordable option.
All-in-one design.
Easy-to-use electronic panel.
Stainless interior components are easy to remove and clean.
Available in 8.7-liter and 10-liter capacities.

Cons:
You’re limited to its fixed size (But I fit a whole duck it it the Sous Vide Supreme)
Temperatures only programmable to within 0.5°C (for example, you can only come close to 80.7°C, but really…)

Sous Vide Professional thermal immersion circulatorSous Vide Professional™ Chef Series immersion circulator from PolyScience
Compact and attractively designed, this thermal immersion circulator from CuisineTechnology.com sells for US$799.95. Second generation product is prettier than the original Sous Vide Thermal Circulator.

Download a Sous Vide Temperature Reference Guide.

More Info…

Pros:
Clean design.
Easy-to-use electronic panel.
Heats and circulates up to 8 gallons of water.
Temperatures accurate to within 0.09°F (0.05°C).
Comes with a carrying case.

Cons:
Not self-contained — you need a vessel (and lid) for your water bath.
More expensive.

Sous Vide Thermal Immersion Circulator, by PolyScience.Sous Vide Thermal Circulator™ from PolyScience
The original, laboratory-equipment design by PolyScience was adopted by chefs for sous vide cooking. An immersion circulator circulates the water. A thermal immersion circulator circulates and heats the liquid. Still selling strong, this thermal immersion circulator from CuisineTechnology.com sells for US$1,022.00.

More info…

Pros:
Easy-to-use electronic panel.
Heats and circulates water in a bath.
Temperatures accurate to within 0.09°F (0.05°C).
Available with a protective metal shield for circulator coils, and an optional hard carrying case.

Cons:
Not self-contained — you need a vessel (and lid) for your water bath.
Circulator coils are exposed and may get dinged.
Much more expensive.

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Next elBulli Tickets Wanted

Next elBulli Tickets Wanted It’s a phrase that’s popping up all over the place.

Yes, it’s the hottest ticket in town. Yes, it’s one of the most difficult to obtain. And no, you can’t get in. Probably.

Season tickets sold out in less than a day, and there are scarcely a few same-night availabilities. I couldn’t even get tickets. Not for lack of trying, though.

Next el Bulli
Five minutes after sales started, I was in — and number 2819 in line.

So if anybody has any old Next el Bulli tickets they’re not using, lemme know!

For all those that did get tix, congrats! I think I’ll just cook my own elBulli dinner here in San DIego with some chefriends…

Posted in News, Next elBulli, Next Restaurant, Next Restaurant Tickets, Next Tickets, Next vs elBulli | Leave a comment

Video of Menu 4: Next vs. elBulli

Here’s a video of opening night of the elBulli menu at Next Restaurant…

Posted in Christian Seel, Dave Beran, Ferran Adria, Grant Achatz, Menus, News, Next elBulli, Next Restaurant, Next vs elBulli | Leave a comment

Menu 4: Next vs. elBulli

Next Restaurant’s Fourth Menu: Next vs. elBulli

Served February 8 – May 27, 2012

Next restaurant’s tribute to Chef Ferran Adriá and his now-closed elBulli Restaurant. The 28 courses are listed by date, name and elBulli recipe number.

caipirinha-nitro con concentrada de estragón
2004 nitro caipirinha with tarragon concentrate 967

Next el Bulli - hot/cold trout roe tempuraheuvas de trucha en témpura fría/caliente
2000 hot/cold trout roe tempura 644

Next el Bulli - spherical olivesolivas sféricas
2005 spherical olives 1095

Next el Bulli - coca of avocado pear, anchovies and green onion in módena vinegarcoca de aguacate, anchoas y cebolla tierna
1991 coca [Catalán pizza] of avocado pear, anchovies and green onion 105

Next el Bulli - Iberico ham sandwichbocadilla ibérico
2003 iberíco sandwich 859

Next el Bulli - golden egghuevo de oro
2001 golden egg 741

Next el Bulli - black sesame spongecake and misobizcocho de sésamo negro y miso
2007 black sesame spongecake and miso 1361

Next el Bulli - liquid chicken croquettescroquetas líquidas de pollo
1998 liquid chicken croquettes 474

Next el Bulli - smoke foamespuma de humo
1997 smoke foam 400

Next el Bulli - carrot air with bitter coconut milkaire de zanahoria con leche-amarga de coco
2003 carrot air with coconut milk 878

Next el Bulli - cuttlefish and coconut ravioli with soy, ginger and mintraviolis de sepia y coco con soja, jengibre y menta
1997 cuttlefish and coconut ravioli with soy, ginger and mint 416

Next el Bulli - savory tomato ice with oregano and almond milk puddinggranizado salado de tomate con orégano y manjar
1992 savory tomato ice with oregano and almond milk pudding 159

Next el Bulli - hot crab aspic with mini corn cous-sous.áspic caliente de nécoras con cous-cous de minimazorcas
2001 hot crab aspic with mini corn cous-cous 781

Next el Bulli - cauliflower cous-cous with solid aromatic herb saucecous-cous de coliflor con salsa sólida de aromáticos
2000 cauliflower cous-cous with solid aromatic herb sauce 671

Next el Bulli - suquet [Catalonian stew] of prawnssuquet de gambas
1988 suquet [Catalonian stew] of prawns 28

Next el Bulli - potato tortilla by Marc Singlatortilla de patatas de marc singla
1998 potato tortilla by marc singla 491

Next el Bulli - trumpet carpacciocarpaccio de ceps confitados
1989 trumpet mushroom carpaccio 52

Next el Bulli - red mullet a la Gaudísalmonetes gaudí
1987 red mullet a la Gaudí 10

Next el Bulli - civet of rabbit with warm apple jellycivet de conejo con gelatina caliente de manzana
2000 civet of rabbit with hot apple jelly 686

Next el Bulli - Gorgonzola balloon with nutmegglobo de gorgonzola
2009 gorgonzola balloon 1570

Next el Bulli - foie gras flan [caramel custard]flan de foie-gras de pato al caramelo
1999 foie gras caramel custard 580

Next el Bulli - the spice plateel plato de las especias
1996 spice plate 367

Next el Bulli - mint pondestanque mentolado
2009 mint pond 1647

Next el Bulli - chocolate, in textureschocolate en texturas
1997 chocolate in textures 439

Next el Bulli - 2010 chocolate donuts 1820donetes de coco
2010 chocolate doughnuts 1820

Next el Bulli - creme flute cookierulo de crema
1993 creme flute 225

puff pastry webtelaraña de hojaldre
1989 puff pastry web 66

Next el Bulli - passionfruit marshmallow, the farewellmarshmallow de fruta de la pasión — el adiós
2004 passionfruit marshmallow — the farewell 1089

Menu as reported by TimeOutChicago and Eater Chicago. Photos, courtesy elBulli, Next Restaurant, Woman Magazine, Pocketfork

Posted in Christian Seel, Dave Beran, Ferran Adria, Grant Achatz, Joe Catterson, Menus, Molecular Gastronomy, News, Next elBulli, Next Restaurant, Next vs elBulli, Nick Kokonas | Leave a comment